As you are probably aware, connected to the end of most sway bars is a drop link. The ball joints have a flat bit on them so you can get a spanner on to tighten them and a Nylock nut on the other end. Hello Chaps, Does anyone have any thought on the symptoms that a bad ball joint on a front anti roll bar drop link will have. Jack up the car and safely support it on axle stands. However, the ones that cause the most damage are in the front and located directly behind your left and right front tires. Click & Collect. Sway bar suspension bar, or an anti-roll bar as it is commonly called, is an essential part of a car’s system. An anti-roll bar (roll bar, anti-sway bar, sway bar, stabilizer bar) is a part of many car suspensions which helps to reduce a vehicle’s body roll during quick cornering or over road irregularities. This is usually the case, on a semi-independent torsion beam suspension such as a VAG group applications with a rear beam axle. This only happens in two situations: 1) Turning right - not all the time and never ever when turning left. £10.95. These links connect the sway bar to the control bar with small ball joints - they’re important to keep an eye on. Anti-roll bars, also known as torsion bars are designed to resist torsion when a centrifugal force pushes the inside of the car up and the outside down. In most instances the drop link is used to ensure that the load is orientated correctly, and to bridge the gap between the anti-roll bar and the connection. The U-shaped length of metal joins the suspension at either side of the axle via the control arms. Align the new bushes with the marks worn on the bar by the old ones. When the car is driven around a corner, the sway bar acts a lever arm on the side of the car that is on the inside of the turn. Free postage. Also known as a stabiliser bar or torsion bar, the anti-roll bar on your car helps to reduce body roll when cornering. First, install the upper end of the drop links onto the sway bar arms so the lever length is the same on both sides (the shorter the effective arm length, the stiffer the roll stiffness). Go for brief and careful drive over some bumps. The upper end of the drop link usually passes through a horizontal eye on the end of the anti-roll bar, while the lower end is connected to the suspension arm in the same way, or by a vertical rubber bush and a through-bolt, or by a rubber-lined ball joint. Here we discuss why they could be the next essential bit you need for your anti-roll bars. But if one wheel hits a speed hump and the other does not, one end of the anti-roll bar is raised – twisting the bar. They enable you to set the length of the link to ensure the load is carried correctly, and set the length of the link to ensure there is no preload. The anti-roll bar is a spring steel bar … This is why most semi-independent trailing arm suspensions still run a separate anti-roll bar. The drop-links connect your car's anti-roll bar to the wishbone. Unfortunately in the aftermarket there are often cheaper alternatives which don’t last as long. Certainly they are from the original equipment manufacturer. The second mounting method uses the anti-roll bar as a suspension link. What happens if we move the lever point just 1 inch? I have to change the anti-Roll bar link rods on my A2 1.4 petrol as the boot on one is deteriorated slightly and was an advisory on the last MOT. 92 sold. If we imagine that the original bar was just ¾ inch thick and had a fixed 6 inch lever it would have given us just 264 lbs of roll stiffness. Many cars also use a rear sway bar. There are only 2 mounts to remove, one at the top and one at the bottom, use a spanner and mole grips to remove the old anti roll bar drop link, it does not matter if you damage it, as this whole part will be replaced. The thicker the anti-roll bar the greater the impact. Due to the fact that the sway bar is connected to the suspention, every time you hit a bump it’s not only the strut or schock that takes the hit but also the sway bar bushings and links. In certain cars, the rear end will also have stabilizer bar links. It is useful to consider the loads we’re dealing with. Link rods are subjected to massive shock loading – more so on increasingly pot-holed roads. This can often be quite large and drop links of up to 300 mm are not uncommon. The force needed to twist the bar is all transmitted through the link rods which are normally quite light metal or plastic rods with a ball joint on either or both ends.